Where Can I Buy A Flop Chair
LINK - https://urllio.com/2tlvLq
Growing up in Soviet Russia, I remember an odd piece of furniture that most of us bought to accommodate an occasional overnight guest. It was an uncomfortable pull-up chair that could be transformed into an equally uncomfortable (and mercilessly narrow) bed. This is why I am so excited about this witty evolution of the old idea by Moscow based designer Elena Sidorova. She aims at the same function, but approaches it with infinitely more pizazz and ergonomic kindness. The Flop chair looks comfortable and spacious, and it can be easily turned into a functional tween bed. And as a bonus feature, all the guest bed paraphernalia (pillows, comforters, and sheets) can be stored right here, inside the chair.
FlipFlop convertible chair cum stool is made from engineered wood with water base paint suitable for children. This product is fully assembled and ready for use without any additional assembly step.
There's nothing we love more than a good multi-purpose piece of furniture, as you may have seen with this murphy bed that turns into an office desk, the bean bag bed with a built-in blanket and pillow, or this sofa that has a dog bed built into the armrest. Well, we may have found our new favorite multi-purpose furniture piece, and it's this incredible arm chair that instantly turns into a bed. It's called the fLOP and it was designed by artist Elena Sidorova.The FLOP by default works as a mustard yellow cushioned arm chair but if you pull the top back you can lay it flat to instantly turn it into a bed that would be perfect for guests staying the night, sleepovers for kids, or just to take a nap at the office. When you flip the arm chair into bed mode, the top of it opens up to reveal a storage area where you can store the mattress of teh bed, along with blankets, pillows, and anything else that you'd like to store.Credit: Elena SidorovaThe multi-purpose arm chair bed is made from wood veneer on the side of the bed along with 100% wool, plus the top of the bed is made with elastic straps to make the bed extra springy and comfy under the mattress. Elena, the Russian designer of the chair/bed also states: \"I don't only care about comfort and aesthetics of my projects, but also about their long-lasting usage.\"Credit: Elena SidorovaElena is still looking for a manufacturer for the FLOP chair bed that opens like a book, but you can request a quote and more info on the chair from the site Archello. She states \"I am searching for manufacturers right now to produce a whole collection of fLOPs.\"Credit: Elena Sidorova\"Working on the concept of fLOP I was aiming to create a functional example of furniture with useful characteristics such as: good ergonomics both of seating and sleeping, usage of natural materials such as veneer and 100% wool and the possibility of storage inside the construction.\"Credit: Elena Sidorova\"In private interiors fLOP will save space if your guest is going to stay for a night. In an office, especially when people have to stay for extra work until late evening or night, fLOP will solve the problem of rest.\"Credit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena Sidorova
Make these Flip Flop Chair Socks to protect your floor! The crochet pattern creates chair leg covers that are funny, adorable and useful! Stop your chair from scratching the floor with these super cute and unique flip flop chair socks!
Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn in two colors. You will need approx. 15 yds for the flip flop and 19 yds for the foot (for each chair sock). I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid in the colors Aqua for the flip flop and Golden Beige for the foot. This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic (a skein is 4.5 oz / 127.5 g and 285 yds / 260 m).
Gumbies follow the contours of the foot, the arch of the sole and most importantly provide comfort between the toes, whilst using the most practical, natural and recycled planet friendly materials where possible.
How about saving some space in your home for your sleeping arrangements The solution featured here is also good if you just want to have an extra bed for when someone comes to visit. Named Flop, and upholstered in 100% wool, the comfy armchair can actually become a bed with a few easy moves! Elena Sidorova, a designer from Russia, has made this awesome piece of furniture. The mattress and pillow are hidden in a compartment when not in use. All you have to do in order to go to sleep comfortably is fold out the armchair and relax. Check out the photos to get a better look of the product.
Keith Nielsen, the incoming chairman of the Harris County Republican Party, came under fire from members of his own party after posting a photo on social media of a Martin Luther King, Jr. quote next to a banana early last month.
The post drew ire from a full spectrum of ideologies for perpetuating a racist stereotype. Even Texas Lt. Gov. Dan Patrick called for Neilson to vacate his victory for the Harris County GOP chairmanship.
Neilson at one point said he would rescind his victory. But earlier this month, he showed up to a GOP organizational meeting and told several precinct chairs that he indeed planned on assuming office Aug. 3, according to the Tribune.
Over the last decade or so, iconic Adirondack chairs have migrated from the mountains of Upstate New York to the beaches of the Outer Banks. They've gone from traditional forest green to the bright colors of our favorite fruits.
However, unlike, say, conformations in linear alkanes, which involve rotations about single bonds, it might not be immediately obvious how the chair on the left can be converted to the chair on the right.
What surprised me was how much it truly demands attention. This is no small piece. The lounge chair itself is massive and requires a wide berth, not to mention an ottoman that is large enough to be a seat in its own right, which explains why it works so well in sprawling, minimalistic spaces (and why owners of those spaces just have to have one).
Each lounge chair is hand-crafted in West Michigan with most in-stock options ready to be delivered to your doorstep within two to three weeks. For customized options, lead times may vary but estimated timeframes are indicated on the Herman Miller and DWR website. Additionally, customers can choose between in-home delivery for an extra $249 or in-home delivery at a specified time frame, which will run you an additional $349.
The cost of kids' bean bag chairs can range from under $100 to over $800, depending on material, use, and other features. Most will cost you between $100 and $300. Our best overall pick, the Moon Pod Bean Bag Chair, costs $300, though our tester recommends buying the crescent back pillow for an additional $140. The priciest option on our list is the Lovesac CitySac, which starts at $565, though we think it's worth the splurge for those that have the budget and room in their home or a large, plush bean bag chair that several members of the family can use. For a more budget-friendly option, we recommend the Big Joe Fuf Large Foam Beanbag Chair, which costs $119 and provides helpful back support for your kiddo, whether they're doing homework, gaming, or relaxing.
Depending on your high chair style, your baby may be able to sit at the table with you sooner than later. Reclining high chairs can be used when babies are as young as a few weeks old. Keep in mind, however, that these chairs are not meant for feeding infants solid food.
If your baby cries throughout dinner and wants to be at the table with you, it may be wise to invest in a reclining high chair early on. It will make your life less hectic as your baby can play happily in their high chair while you cook, clean, and eat.
Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.\\n\\n\\n \\n The seat tube length defines the size of the bike in a more meaningful way than the \\u2018Small, Medium or Large\\u2019 size structure. This is because it dictates the minimum and maximum height the saddle can be set, and therefore the height range of riders who can comfortably ride the bike, or how low they can drop the saddle for descending.\\nTwo Medium frames, for example, will often have different seat tube lengths that will fit different riders. While the seat tube length doesn\\u2019t directly affect the handling of the bike, important measurements for handling and fit, such as reach, must be compared to the seat tube length to define how long the bike is relative to the height of the rider.\\nThe ratio of reach to seat tube length is particularly useful \\u2013 some modern bikes have a longer reach than seat tube measurement.\\nEffective top tube length\\n\\n\\n The effective top-tube length relates to how the bike will fit when in the saddle. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition:\\u00a0The length of a horizontal line drawn from the top of the head tube until it meets the centre of the seatpost.\\n\\n\\n \\n The effective top tube (ETT) provides a better idea of how roomy a bike will feel when you\\u2019re sitting in the saddle, rather than using the basic top-tube measurement (from the top of the head tube to the top of the seat tube).\\nTaken together with the stem length and offset of the saddle, it provides a good approximation of how stretched out the bike will feel to ride in the saddle.\\nStack height\\n\\n\\n Stack determines the minimum bar height relative to the bottom bracket. It\\u2019s inter-related to the reach. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition:\\u00a0The vertical distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre-top of the head tube.\\n\\n\\n \\n This determines how low the bars can sit relative to the bottom bracket. In other words, it determines the minimum bar height, with no spacers under the stem. Stack also has an important but rather unintuitive relationship with reach\\u2026\\nReach\\n\\n\\n Reach is the most useful fit measurement. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The horizontal distance from the bottom bracket to the centre of the top of the head tube.\\n\\n\\n \\n Of all the commonly available numbers in a bike\\u2019s geometry chart, reach provides the best impression of how a bike will fit. Along with the stem length, it defines how roomy the bike will feel when ridden out of the saddle, and alongside the effective seat angle, it determines how roomy the bike will feel when in the saddle too. There is one small caveat to that though, and it\\u2019s to do with the stack height.\\nTake two identical bikes, then make the head tube of one bike taller, so it has a higher stack height. Now if you measured the reach of those two bikes, the one with the extended head tube would measure shorter. That\\u2019s because the head angle is not vertical \\u2013 so, the longer the head tube, the further back the top of it becomes, and so the shorter the reach measurement. But if you used headset spacers on the original bike, such that the bar height was the same, both bikes would feel identical to ride.\\nThis demonstrates how reach measurements are affected by stack height. When comparing reach between bikes remember the one with the higher stack height will feel longer than its reach figure would suggest.\\nThe easiest way to measure reach is to butt the front wheel against a wall, then measure the distance from the wall to the bottom bracket and to the top of the head tube, then subtract.\\nDown tube length\\n\\n\\n Down-tube length is a handy alternative to reach, which doesn\\u2019t depend on stack in the same way. It\\u2019s easier to measure too. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the bottom of the head tube.\\n\\n\\n \\n Like reach, down-tube length provides an indication of how roomy the bike will feel, but it too is complicated by other factors.\\nIn much the same way as reach is affected by stack height (the difference in height between the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube), down-tube length is affected by the difference in height between the bottom bracket and the bottom of the head tube.\\nThis means down-tube length is only useful when comparing bikes with a similar wheel size and fork length \\u2013 such that the bottom of the head tube is at roughly the same height. In this case, down-tube length can be a more useful (and measurable) number than reach.\\nFront-centre\\n\\n\\n Front-centre affects how far behind the front axle the rider\\u2019s weight is likely to sit. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the front axle.\\n\\n\\n \\n The longer the front-centre, the less prone the bike will be to pitching forwards when faced with large bumps or hard braking. This is because the rider\\u2019s weight will naturally sit further behind the front contact patch. This is why enduro and downhill bikes, meant for rough and steep terrain, have long front-centres.\\nFor a given rear-centre length, a longer front-centre reduces the proportion of the rider\\u2019s weight supported by the front wheel. This can reduce front-wheel traction unless the rider moves their riding position forwards, or the rear-centre is made longer too.\\nRear-centre\\n\\n\\n The rear centre, combined with the front-centre, determines the natural weight balance of the bike. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The horizontal distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the rear axle (aka chainstay length).\\n\\n\\n \\n Because the front-centre is usually significantly longer than the rear-centre, mountain bikes tend to have a naturally rearward weight distribution. This can be countered by the rider consciously putting pressure on the bar, but doing so can be fatiguing and takes practice.\\nThe ratio of rear centre to the total wheelbase defines the front-to-rear weight distribution when all the rider\\u2019s weight is on the pedals.\\nA typical mountain bike\\u2019s rear-centre is about 35 per cent of its wheelbase, so the \\u201cnatural\\u201d weight distribution is 35 per cent front to 65 per cent rear, before the rider puts some weight on the grips.\\nHaving 50 per cent or more weight on the front wheel is usually ideal for cornering, so bikes with shorter rear-centre:wheelbase ratios require more pressure on the grips to achieve this.\\nOn steep descents, the weight distribution becomes more forward-biased anyway, particularly when braking, so this is most relevant for flat corners.\\n\\n A short rear-centre relative to the front-centre requires the rider to weight the front wheel through the hands to achieve a balanced weight distribution in flat turns. Immediate Media\\nLonger rear-centres therefore make it easier (less tiring) to achieve a more balanced weight distribution, which benefits front wheel traction in flat corners.\\nHowever, the longer the rear-centre, the more the rider\\u2019s weight must be lifted (with the bottom bracket) to lift the front wheel. A shorter rear-centre therefore reduces the effort to manual, but increases the effort required to properly weight the front wheel through the bar.\\nWheelbase\\n\\n\\n The wheelbase is generally correlated with stability. The longer the wheelbase, the more settled the weight distribution between the axles. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The horizontal distance between the front and rear axles or contact patches; the sum of the rear-centre plus the front-centre.\\n\\n\\n \\n It\\u2019s difficult to define the effect of wheelbase on handling. Because the wheelbase is made up of the rear-centre and front-centre (the latter is, in turn, determined by the reach, head angle and fork offset), different combinations of these variables could produce the same wheelbase, but different handling characteristics.\\nGenerally, though, the longer the wheelbase the less the distribution of the rider\\u2019s weight is affected by braking, gradient changes or bumpy terrain. In this sense, a longer wheelbase increases stability; there\\u2019s a larger window between the rider\\u2019s weight being too far forward (pitching over the bars) or too far back (looping out). This can be a bad thing because it takes more effort to manual or nose-pivot.\\nThere is also a downside in tight corners. The longer the wheelbase, the greater the angle through which the bars need to be turned (known as the steering angle) for the bike to follow a corner of a given radius.\\nAlso, the difference between the arcs taken by the front and rear wheels will be greater. This is why long-wheelbase vans are prone to clipping their rear tyres on the inside of corners. Of course, mountain bikes can be cornered differently to vans or even motorbikes \\u2013 the back wheel can be hopped or skidded round tight corners if need be.\\nBottom-bracket height\\n\\n\\n Bottom-bracket height from the ground determines the centre of gravity height of the rider, which affects front-rear stability as well as cornering agility. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The vertical distance from the floor to the centre of the bottom bracket.\\n\\n\\n \\n The higher the bottom-bracket height, the higher the centre of mass of the rider, and so the more the bike tends to pitch when faced with bumps, hard braking or steep gradients. In this sense, a lower bottom bracket improves stability in much the same way as a longer wheelbase.\\nCounterintuitively, a lower bottom bracket also makes the bike more agile when turning. When a bike leans into a corner, it pivots around the roll axis (the line connecting the two contact patches along the ground). By lowering the rider\\u2019s centre of mass so it\\u2019s closer to the roll axis, the amount by which the rider\\u2019s mass drops as the bike leans into the turn is reduced, and the inertia of the rider when changing lean angles (when swapping from turning left to right, for example) is reduced.\\nThe height of the centre of mass of the rider and bike above the roll axis is called the roll moment \\u2013 the longer this distance, the slower the bike is to change the direction of lean.\\nAs a result, bikes with lower bottom-bracket heights are generally easier to move in and out of turns.\\nBottom-bracket height is affected by suspension sag and dynamic ride height, so longer-travel bikes need higher static bottom-bracket heights to compensate for the increased suspension travel. See the sections on sagged and dynamic geometry below.\\nThe disadvantage of a low bottom bracket is obvious; it increases the chances of catching pedals or chainrings on the ground.\\nIt\\u2019s also worth remembering that the centre of mass of the bike and rider is typically well over a metre above the ground, so lowering the BB by a centimetre (an amount which will noticeably increase pedal-strikes) makes a small percentage difference.\\nBottom-bracket drop\\n\\n\\n Bottom-bracket drop determines the bottom-bracket height for a given wheel and tyre size. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The vertical distance from the line connecting the wheel-axles to the centre of the bottom bracket.\\n\\n\\n \\n The bottom-bracket drop itself is less important than some people have supposed. The distance by which the bottom bracket hangs below the wheel axles is seen by some to directly determine the stability of the bike in turns, as if the bike\\u2019s roll-axis (the line about which it turns when leaning into a corner) was at the height of the axles.\\nThis argument was used in the marketing of 29in wheels, claiming that because the bottom bracket sat slightly below (not above) the axles, the bike was far more stable.\\nIn fact, the roll axis is \\u2013 roughly speaking \\u2013 the line connecting the tyre contact patches. The important measurement for cornering is the height of the centre of mass above this line, and not the height of the bottom bracket relative to the axles.\\n\\n Some bikes can adjust their bottom-bracket drop to provide a similar bottom-bracket height with different wheel diameters. This affects handling less than keeping the bottom-bracket drop the same and changing the bottom-bracket height. Immediate Media\\nFitting smaller wheels reduces the bottom-bracket height but doesn\\u2019t affect the bottom-bracket drop. This makes a bike significantly quicker to change direction of lean because the centre of mass of the bike and rider is lower.\\nInterestingly, some bikes (such as Pivot\\u2019s Switchblade) feature height-adjustable \\u2018chips\\u2019, which compensate for different wheel sizes. Using these, the bottom-bracket height remains similar with the smaller wheel size, but the bottom-bracket drop changes.\\nThis results in a much smaller change in the bike\\u2019s handling, suggesting bottom-bracket height is important, not bottom-bracket drop.\\nBottom-bracket drop is still a useful measurement, though. Bottom-bracket height is affected by not only wheel size but also tyre choice \\u2013 comparing bottom-bracket drop between bikes of a given wheel size removes this variable.\\nHead angle\\n\\n\\n The head angle is the steepness of the steering axis (dotted line parallel to the fork). It affects trail and how far the front axle extends in front of the head tube. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The angle (measured from horizontal) of the steerer tube of the fork.\\n\\n\\n \\n Head angles affect bike handling in a few key ways.\\nFirst, the head angle affects the distance by which the front axle sits in front of the rider\\u2019s hands. All things being equal, a slacker head angle increases the front-centre, making the bike less prone to pitching forwards on steep descents, but reducing the proportion of the rider\\u2019s weight pressing on the front contact patch. Therefore, the rider may need to put more pressure on the bar to avoid understeer in flat turns with a slacker head angle.\\nSecond, slacker head angles result in more trail. (See the section on trail below \\u2013 this is also affected by fork offset and wheel size.) More trail means a slower, but calmer, steering response. This is why slack bikes tend to have heavier but less twitchy steering.\\nThird, the head angle also affects the steering response directly. Imagine a 90-degree head angle; if you turn the bars 10 degrees from straight ahead, the contact patch will turn by 10 degrees about the vertical axis relative to the ground, and the bike will steer in that direction. Now imagine a 0-degree head angle, so the steering axis is horizontal; now when you turn the bars the contact patch won\\u2019t turn at all about that vertical axis relative to the ground, so the bike will go straight ahead.\\nSo, the slacker the head angle, the less the bike steers for a given steering angle at the handlebar. With a 63-degree head angle, turning the bars by 10 degrees will steer the contact patch by 8.9 degrees about the vertical axis; with a 70-degree head angle, the contact patch will steer by 9.4 degrees. In other words, the steeper the head angle, the faster the steering response.\\nFourth, telescopic suspension forks operate parallel to the head angle, so the head angle also defines the axle path of the front suspension. The slacker the head angle, the more the axle moves backwards, and the less it moves upwards for a given fork travel.\\nThis is why slacker bikes are less good at dealing with flat landings (because the suspension is stiffer in the vertical direction) and why many bikes have longer fork travel than rear travel. A 170mm fork at a 64-degree head angle will provide 153mm of vertical travel and 67mm of rearwards travel.\\nActual seat angle\\n\\n\\n The steepness of the seatpost affects the seated position, but so does the bend or offset, found in most seat tubes. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The angle (measured from horizontal) of the seatpost.\\n\\n\\n \\n The actual seat angle alone tells you very little about how a bike will ride. For that, look at the effective seat angle (see below) and ignore the actual seat angle.\\nThe shape or offset of the seat tube will affect the position of the rider as much as the actual seat angle. The effective seat angle takes both factors into account.\\nEffective seat angle\\n\\n\\n The effective seat angle dictates the ergonomics of pedalling. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The angle of the line connecting the bottom bracket to the centre-top of the seatpost when set at pedalling height.\\n\\n\\n \\n Unlike the actual seat angle, the effective seat angle (ESA) gives a true indication of the seated position of the rider\\u2019s hips relative to the pedals. Note that moving the saddle fore and aft on its rails does allow the ESA to be adjusted by around 3 degrees.\\nFor bikes with a straight seat-tube, the ESA is the same as the actual seat angle. But for those with a kinked or offset seat tube (this applies to most full suspension bikes), the ESA is steeper than the actual seat angle.\\nThis means the ESA becomes slacker the higher the seatpost is set, so taller riders will usually experience a slacker effective seat angle than shorter riders.\\nOn static bikes (like you\\u2019d get in a bike-fit or a spin class) most people find an ESA of around 72 to 73 degrees provides the most comfortable, ergonomic and powerful position. This varies depending on an individual\\u2019s flexibility and physiology.\\nHowever, many mountain bikes are designed to compensate for uphill gradients, as well as suspension sag.\\nClimbing a 10 per cent gradient effectively slackens the angles by around 6 degrees. For full suspension bikes, the rear suspension sags far more than the front suspension when in the saddle, especially when going uphill. For a typical 150mm travel bike, this could slacken the ESA by a further 3 degrees or so.\\n\\n Steeper effective seat angles compensate for suspension compression and uphill gradients. Immediate Media\\nAlong with the rear-centre, the ESA also determines where the rider\\u2019s mass is positioned between the front and rear axles. As a climb gets steeper, there comes a point where the rider\\u2019s centre of mass is directly above the rear contact patch. At this point the front wheel will lift, unless the rider deliberately moves their weight forwards, usually by dropping the shoulders and sitting towards the nose of the saddle.\\nThe longer the rear-centre and the steeper the ESA, the steeper the gradient that can be ridden before this issue arises.\\nThe ESA and the rear-centre also determine the horizontal distance between the rear axle and the rider\\u2019s weight. The further in front of the rear axle the rider sits, the less they are affected by bumps from the rear wheel. This is because when the rear wheel hits a bump, the chassis of the bike pivots around the front axle.\\nTherefore, the closer the saddle is to that pivot point, the less it will move up and down for a given movement at the rear axle, and so the more comfortable the ride.\\nFor these reasons, it\\u2019s becoming more common for full-suspension bikes to have an ESA considerably steeper than 72 to 73 degrees.\\nBar height\\n\\n\\n Handlebar height affects weight distribution and the body\\u2019s ability to absorb impacts. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The vertical distance from the floor to the grips.\\n\\n\\n \\n This is arguably the most underrated aspect of bike handling. Handlebar height can be easily adjusted by switching spacers from above and below the stem, or if necessary, by swapping between handlebars with a different rise.\\nRaising the bars enables the rider to move their weight back more easily. This may reduce arm fatigue, make it easier to manual and can improve confidence on steep terrain.\\nOn the other hand, a lower bar height encourages a more aggressive stance, which can help to weight the front wheel in flat turns, quickening changes of direction.\\nBar height also dictates how bent the rider\\u2019s elbows will be in the attack position, and this determines how far the rider can push the front wheel into holes or absorb impacts.\\nStem length\\n\\n\\n Stem length has an effect on steering feel and weight distribution, but this is also affected by the handlebar shape. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The distance from the centre of the bar clamp to the centre of the steerer tube.\\n\\n\\n \\n The longer the stem, the roomier the cockpit will feel for a given bike. It may also make it easier to weight the front wheel through the hands on flat terrain by forcing the rider\\u2019s weight forwards and decreasing the horizontal distance between the rider\\u2019s hands and the front axle.\\nShorter stems move the rider\\u2019s weight further behind the front contact patch, helping to tackle steep and rough terrain without pitching forward, while reducing the effort required to manual.\\nHowever, the shape of the bar is important too. A handlebar with more backsweep has a similar effect to shortening the stem because it puts the rider\\u2019s hands further back.\\nThe grips can sit as much as 30mm behind the stem\\u2019s bar clamp. This varies greatly between handlebars and is also affected by the roll-position of the bar in the stem.\\n\\n The \\u201ceffective stem length\\u201d is where the grips sit relative to the steering axis, and this depends on the bar and stem. In some cases, the grips can be behind the steering axis. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\nFork offset\\n\\n\\n Fork offset affects steering feel and front-centre length. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The distance between the front axle and the fork\\u2019s steering axis (the line running through the centre of the head tube), about which the fork rotates when steering.\\n\\n\\n \\n Fork offset is made up by the forwards sweep of the fork crown and the placement of the axle in front of the lower legs.\\nFork manufacturers now offer some forks with multiple fork offset options. RockShox produces 37mm and 44mm offsets in 650b, and 42mm or 51mm in 29in forks. Fox forks have similar numbers.\\nFork offset affects the trail (see below). Longer offset results in less trail, which makes for a lighter but twitchier steering feel. Conversely, shorter offset forks increase the trail, which makes for more stable, heavier steering especially in steep corners or bumpy sections.\\nThe fork offset also affects the front-centre (shorter offset means a shorter bike), as well as the distance between the rider\\u2019s hands and the front axle. For this reason, increasing the fork offset can feel a bit like a shortening the stem, in that the front wheel is further in front of the hands.\\nGround trail\\n\\n\\n The horizontal measurement from contact patch to steering axis is the most often quoted version of trail, but not necessarily the most useful. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The horizontal distance between the front tyre\\u2019s contact patch and the point at which the steering axis meets the ground.\\n\\n\\n \\n Ground trail gives an indication of how stable a bike\\u2019s steering will be. It\\u2019s technically less accurate than mechanical trail (see below), but it\\u2019s easier to visualise and it\\u2019s the measurement you\\u2019re most likely to find in a bike\\u2019s geometry chart, listed as \\u2018trail\\u2019.\\nIt\\u2019s affected by three factors: wheel size, head angle and fork offset. The slacker the head angle, the shorter the offset or the bigger the wheel size, the more trail.\\nGenerally speaking, the more trail, the more stable the steering. This is because there is a restoring force when the steering is turned away from straight ahead, which acts to self-centre the steering to straight ahead. This force is related to the ground trail, but as I\\u2019ll explain, mechanical trail is a better measure of this.\\nMechanical trail\\n\\n\\n The line from the contact patch directly to the steering axis is the \\u2018virtual lever\\u2019 that determines the caster and flop of the front wheel Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The distance between the front contact patch and the steering axis when measured at 90 degrees to the steering axis.\\n\\n\\n \\n Also known as \\u2018real trail\\u2019, mechanical trail is closely tied to ground trail in that an increase in one will lead to an increase in the other.\\nGround trail is a good analogue of mechanical trail, but mechanical trail is a more relevant measurement because it relates directly to the self-centring effect or caster effect.\\n\\n An office chair\\u2019s caster wheel. The contact patch trails behind the steering axis (purple dashed line) much like a bike\\u2019s front wheel Seb Stott\\nThe caster effect in a bike is like that in a caster wheel \\u2013 as you would find on a shopping cart or office chair. The caster wheel is mounted on a link that swivels on a vertical axis relative to the cart, such that the contact patch trails behind the axis about which the link rotates. Because of this, the wheel self-aligns with the direction of travel.\\nIf it steps out to the side, there is a restoring force on the contact patch that pushes it back into line behind the steering axis of the link. The greater the angle between the direction of travel and the wheel (known as the slip angle), the greater the restoring force that acts to reduce this angle. This self-steering effect applies to bicycle steering too.\\nA bicycle front wheel is similar in that the contact patch trails behind the steering axis. If the wheel is out of line, a restoring force acts to keep it in line with the direction of travel.\\nThe mechanical trail is just like the link connected to the caster wheel. You can think of it as a \\u2018virtual lever\\u2019 that connects the contact patch to the steering axis. The longer this lever, the less the steering angle will be affected when the wheel is knocked off line by a given lateral distance (by a rock, for example).\\nOr, if the steering assembly is knocked off-line by a given angle, there will be a stronger restoring torque acting to straighten it out again, simply because the force at the contact patch acts through a longer lever.\\nFor this reason, a higher mechanical trail figure implies the steering tends to stay straighter in rough terrain. But by the same token, more steering torque needs to be applied to the handlebar to initiate a turn because the contact patch needs to be moved relative to the frame via a longer (virtual) lever.\\nSo, in other words, longer mechanical trail implies more stable but heavier steering.\\nThe main reason for designing bikes with longer mechanical trail, however, is to reduce the chances of the trail becoming negative when hitting a bump, a change in gradient or a tight turn. Negative trail sends the caster effect into reverse, making the steering unstable and hard to handle. More on this later.\\nMechanical trail is also one of the commonly cited prerequisites for a bicycle to be stable enough to ride no-handed. When a bike is leaned over to the right, the weight of the bike and rider acts downwards through the steering axis which is now tilted to one side; the steering axis being in front of the contact patch, this causes the steering assembly to turn to the right.\\nAlongside the gyroscopic force on the front wheel, this is one reason why a hands-free bike is able to steer into the direction of lean, thereby correcting the lean and remaining upright.\\nOn the other hand, recent research has proven that it is possible to build a self-stable bike with negative trail, and with neutralised gyroscopic forces, but I wouldn\\u2019t recommend building a bike like that!\\nWheel flop\\n\\n\\n As the steering angle is turned away from straight ahead, the frame drops. The rider\\u2019s weight therefore creates a force acting to turn the handlebars away from straight, known as flop. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The tendency for the steering assembly to automatically steer into a turn, because the head tube drops as the handlebar is turned away from straight ahead.\\n\\n\\n \\n Flop is a little-discussed but important aspect of steering geometry. And, like the caster effect discussed earlier, flop is determined by the mechanical trail. But while the caster effect relates to the horizontal component of the mechanical trail, flop is to do with the vertical component.\\nWhen you turn the bars without the bike leaning over, the head tube will drop slightly. This is because the steering axis is on a slope (the head angle), so the bike tips downwards as the steering axis rotates about the stationary contact patch. The mechanical trail is the lever about which this arc takes place.\\nImagine a head angle of zero degrees, such that the fork was horizontal. Now it\\u2019s easier to picture that as you turn the handlebars, the head tube will move in a downwards arc as the steering angle is increased.\\nFor normal head angles, the amount by which the head tube drops is proportional to the vertical component of the mechanical trail, which depends on the mechanical trail length and the head angle.*\\nFlop is the result of a torque on the handlebars acting to increase the steering angle (away from straight ahead), due to the weight of the bike and rider trying to achieve the lowest position.\\nThis is aided by the fact that the bulk of the steering assembly \\u2013 the handlebars, wheel and fork lowers \\u2013 is placed in front of the steering axis, and so their weight creates a torque about the steering axis, which also acts to turn the assembly away from straight ahead. This contributes to flop but is a smaller factor than the weight of the rider.\\nFlop is a destabilising force (it acts to increase any steering angle, pulling the steering further away from straight ahead), while the caster force is stabilising (it acts to pull the steering towards straight ahead). Increasing the mechanical trail, whether by slackening the head angle or shortening fork offset, increases both of these effects.\\nWhen riding at speed, the caster effect dominates, but at slow speeds and high steering angles, the flop force becomes important.\\nThis is why slack bikes take more effort to keep the steering from flopping to the side in slow, tight turns \\u2013 but at higher speeds, especially in rough terrain, the steering assembly remains more stable and straighter with a slack head angle or short offset.\\n*Shorter fork offset combined with a steeper head angle will result in less flop and more stable steering than the same amount of mechanical trail achieved with a longer fork offset and a slacker head angle. This is because the vertical component of the mechanical trail is less pronounced in the former configuration than the latter.\\nSagged geometry\\n\\n\\n The geometry of any bike with suspension will change due to the static weight of the rider. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\n\\n\\n Definition: The shape of the bike when settled into its suspension travel under stationary rider weight.\\n\\n\\n \\n So far, I\\u2019ve talked about geometry measured when the bike is unloaded. This is known as static geometry, and it\\u2019s what you\\u2019ll usually see in bike geometry tables. But when the rider mounts the bike, their weight will settle the suspension into the sagged position. This changes most of the above measurements.\\nIn the case of hardtails, the fork compression steepens the head and seat angles, lowers the stack height, shortens the front-centre and lowers the bottom-bracket height slightly.\\nWith full suspension bikes, the rear suspension will generally settle further into its travel than the fork. Therefore, the angles will slacken slightly, and the bottom-bracket height will drop significantly.\\nDepending on the axle path of the rear suspension, the rear-centre may also become longer at the sag position, but in most designs, the rear-centre will shorten again further into the travel. The front-centre will always shorten at sag, especially with slack head angles.\\nThe amount of travel and therefore the amount of sag determines how much the geometry will change.\\nDynamic geometry\\n\\n Full-suspension bike geometry changes continuously when ridden over rough terrain. Changes to suspension setup will affect by how much. MBUK\\n\\n\\n Definition: Dynamic geometry refers to the average position of the suspension as the bike is ridden over a given section of terrain.\\n\\n\\n \\n Because compression damping is typically much lighter than rebound damping, mountain bikes tend to sit deeper into their travel when riding through rough terrain, so the dynamic ride height is typically deeper into the travel than the sagged position.\\nDynamic geometry relates to this average suspension position. Clearly, this is not something that is practical to measure without suspension telemetry, and it\\u2019s affected by many factors including rider position and line-choice.\\nDynamic geometry is most useful as a qualitative (rather than quantitative) concept, for comparing different setups. For example, increasing compression damping in the fork will raise its dynamic ride height in rough terrain and so raise and slacken the bike\\u2019s dynamic geometry.\\nPart 2: Why does trail matter in the real world\\nAs discussed above, the weight of the rider creates a force, known as flop, which acts to turn the steering assembly away from the straight-ahead position. But when riding at speed, this force is small compared to the caster effect which acts to self-centre the steering assembly towards straight ahead. That\\u2019s why your handlebars (usually) don\\u2019t veer off to one side when you let go of them.\\nAs long as your bike has some mechanical trail, the steering will remain stable, at least on smooth ground.\\nHowever, there are a few real-world conditions in which the caster effect is diminished or even reversed, resulting in unstable steering, which acts to exaggerate the steering angle away from straight ahead. This is usually referred to as the front wheel \\u201ctucking under\\u201d, and it\\u2019s not much fun.\\nFirst, when the front wheel hits a large enough bump, the contact patch moves in front of the steering axis. This results in negative trail, which causes the caster effect to go into reverse.\\nLike trying to push a shopping cart wheel ahead of the shopping cart, the wheel will try to exaggerate any steering angle, away from straight ahead, until the bump has passed behind the steering axis. This is one reason why bikes with low trail figures can suffer from jerky steering in bumpy terrain.\\n\\n When riding over a bump, the contact patch moves to the point of contact with the bump. This can result in negative trail. Seb Stott\\nSecond, a change of gradient causes the trail to change. Imagine going from a steep downhill slope to a flatter one \\u2013 a situation that occurs regularly when mountain biking.\\n\\n When the bike is on a steeper incline than the ground under the front wheel, the steering axis can move behind the contact patch. Seb Stott\\nHere, the head angle becomes steeper relative to the ground under the front wheel. This effective steepening of the head angle reduces the trail. If the change of gradient is sufficient (typically around 20 degrees), the trail will become negative. Fork suspension compression will steepen the head angle further.\\nThird, as the steering angle is increased towards 90 degrees, there comes a point where the caster effect goes into reverse even on flat ground.\\nAt low steering angles, the contact patch trails behind the steering axis, on the opposite side to the direction of steering. So, as the handlebars are turned left, the contact patch trails on the right, thus acting to turn the handlebars towards the straight-ahead position.\\n\\n At very high steering angles, the contact patch moves to the inside of the steering axis, creating a destabilising force on the steering assembly. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\nBut when the steering is turned very far, say to the left, the contact patch crosses over to the left of the steering axis, due to the fork offset, which moves the whole wheel to the left. (This is difficult to visualise unless you picture a steering angle of 90 degrees. Here, the contact patch is directly to the left of the steering axis by a distance equal to the fork offset.)\\nBeyond this point, the caster effect will be reversed, acting to push the wheel even further from straight ahead.\\nYou\\u2019ve probably experienced this when turning very tightly. Beyond a certain point the wheel \\u2018tries\\u2019 to steer even tighter and \\u201ctuck under\\u201d on its own accord. The shorter the bike\\u2019s trail figure, and the longer the fork offset, the lower the steering angle at which this effect starts to occur.\\nWhen negotiating tight, steep turns, these factors combine. A change of gradient and compressed fork steepens the head angle relative to the ground under the front wheel, reducing trail and often making it negative. When the handlebars are turned, the caster effect goes into reverse at much smaller steering angles.\\nThis acts to pull the front wheel into the turn further than intended. Often, the rider can overcome this simply by holding the bars steady (hence the popularity of wide handlebars), but in some situations the torque on the steering assembly can be enough to make this difficult especially for unskilled riders.\\n\\n Cornering tightly while the bike is inclined downwards can reduce trail significantly. In extreme circumstances, this can make the bike hard to handle. Immediate Media\\nLonger trail, particularly when achieved with shorter fork offset, makes this reverse-caster effect less common. For a given amount of mechanical trail, a shorter offset\\/steeper head angle configuration will produce less flop, and require a greater steering angle before the caster effect starts to go into reverse.\\nIt will also result in a shorter front-centre than a slacker\\/longer offset configuration with the same amount of trail. For these reasons, more brands are experimenting with shorter offset, rather than slacker head angles, to achieve more trail. But how effective is this\\nHow much difference does fork offset make in practice\\nA few years ago, I tested multiple fork offsets on a Specialized Enduro 29. The difference was immediately noticeable \\u2013 on the track in question, I preferred the increased trail provided by the shorter (37mm) fork offset because it resulted in calmer steering.\\nThe bike\\u2019s head angle was 67.5 degrees and I swapped from 51mm offset to 37mm, taking the mechanical trail from 92mm to 106mm. That\\u2019s a difference of over 15 per cent.\\nMore recently, I tested the 42mm and 51mm offset versions of the 2019 RockShox Lyrik on a Transition Sentinel. With 29in wheels and a 64-degree head angle, the Sentinel has around 113mm of mechanical trail with the 51mm offset, and 122mm with the 42mm offset. That\\u2019s around a 7.5 per cent difference.\\n\\n Swapping between 42m and 51mm offset forks on a Transition Sentinel proved surprisingly insignificant. Jack Luke\\/Matt Orton\\nAfter swapping from 42mm to 51mm and back again, performing multiple timed runs with each offset on three familiar test tracks, there was surprisingly little difference in the handling.\\nWith the longer fork offset, I was aware of my hands being further behind the front wheel, as if using a shorter stem. This appeared to make it slightly harder to weight the front wheel in flat turns.\\nThe steering with the shorter offset felt slightly weightier and smoother when cornering very hard, but this was only noticeable in rare situations, and was a very subtle difference. I\\u2019d say changing the bar-roll by a couple of degrees makes more of a difference.\\nFrom this I would suggest that changing offset makes more of a difference to bikes with steep head angles, where there is less mechanical trail to begin with.\\nWith such slack bikes, like the Sentinel, the difference between the fork offsets offered by Fox and RockShox (around 9mm) is simply too small to notice in most riding situations. Perhaps the back-and-forth flex of the fork drowns out such a small difference in offset too.\\nIt seems there is a law of diminishing returns. Going from 92mm to 106mm felt hugely beneficial, while going from 113mm to 122mm was barely noticeable. Clearly more investigation is needed!\\nAcknowledgements\\nWhile all the opinions expressed above are my own, much of the information and terminology presented here were learned from the books Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design: The Art and Science\\u00a0by Tony Foale and Motorcycle Dynamics by Vittore Cossalter.\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/images.immediate.co.uk\\/production\\/volatile\\/sites\\/21\\/2019\\/03\\/geometry-guide-31-1533389680552-7oztur2uulez-8ff8144.jpgquality=45&resize=1600,900\",\"width\":768,\"height\":574},\"headline\":\"The ultimate guide to bike geometry and handling\",\"author\":[{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"name\":\"Seb Stott\"}],\"publisher\":{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"name\":\"BikeRadar\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.bikeradar.com\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/images.immediate.co.uk\\/production\\/volatile\\/sites\\/21\\/2019\\/03\\/cropped-White-Orange-da60b0b-04d8ff9.pngquality=90&resize=265,53\",\"width\":182,\"height\":60}},\"speakable\":{\"@type\":\"SpeakableSpecification\",\"xpath\":[\"\\/html\\/head\\/title\",\"\\/html\\/head\\/meta[@name='description']\\/@content\"],\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.bikeradar.com\\/features\\/the-ultimate-guide-to-bike-geometry-and-handling\\/\"},\"datePublished\":\"2020-09-11T18:00:00+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-10-24T08:20:05+00:00\"},{\"@type\":\"VideoObject\",\"@context\":\"http:\\/\\/schema.org\",\"headline\":\"The ultimate guide to bike geometry and handling\",\"name\":\"Ackerman Steering - Explained\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.bikeradar.com\\/features\\/the-ultimate-guide-to-bike-geometry-and-handling\\/\",\"description\":\"What is the Ackerman principle and what does it mean in terms of how it affects my car and steering Ackerman steering ensures that all four tires have a common point around which they rotate when the car is turning. This ensures that none of the tires are required to slip in order to complete a turn. \\n\\n\\n\\nPlease feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe!\\nAnd don't forget to check out my Facebook page:\\nhttp:\\/\\/www.facebook.com\\/engineeringexplained\\n\\nAlso check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in forums, enter for Car of the Month, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your future!\\nhttp:\\/\\/www.howdoesacarwork.com\\n\\n\\nNEW VIDEOS EVERY WEDNESDAY!\",\"thumbnailUrl\":[\"https:\\/\\/i.ytimg.com\\/vi\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\\/default.jpg\",\"https:\\/\\/i.ytimg.com\\/vi\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\\/mqdefault.jpg\",\"https:\\/\\/i.ytimg.com\\/vi\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\\/hqdefault.jpg\",\"https:\\/\\/i.ytimg.com\\/vi\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\\/sddefault.jpg\",\"https:\\/\\/i.ytimg.com\\/vi\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\\/maxresdefault.jpg\"],\"uploadDate\":\"2012-04-18 16:00:11\",\"duration\":\"PT3M45S\",\"embedUrl\":\"https:\\/\\/www.youtube.com\\/embed\\/oYMMdjbmQXc\",\"interactionCount\":\"485277\"}] The ultimate guide to bike geometry and handling Getting into the details of why no two mountain bikes ride the same 59ce067264